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Imagine this game: you and a stranger are sitting in front of a machine. The machine has two piles of lollies. There’s one pile for you and one for your partner. You have two handles. Pull the green handle and you both get lollies. Pull the red one and no one gets anything.

It looks something like beef. It tastes something like beef. It’s made from cow cells, but no animal will die in the making of this beef patty. Biologist Mark Post, from Maastricht University in the Netherlands, plans to eat a lab‑engineered beef burger while appearing on television later this year.